Cretan Dream Resort & Spa — Chania at a slower pace

A family-run resort in the Cretan hills, a boat trip to Balos, and the feeling that June on Crete is exactly the right time of year.

Chania greets you with a harbour that looks more Italian than Greek — a leftover of the Venetian years, all narrow alleys and waterfront restaurants strung with lights. We stayed just outside the centre at Cretan Dream Resort & Spa, a low-rise family-run place set among olive groves and gardens. The pool is large and somehow never noisy, the rooms are simple and clean, and the breakfast buffet is generous with local honey, yoghurt and pastries.

The highlight of the week was a small-boat trip from Kissamos to Balos Lagoon. We left early, before the big ferries arrived, and for a couple of hours the pink-and-white sand and the turquoise water felt almost private. The captain dropped anchor near Gramvousa so the stronger swimmers could go ashore, and we ate a packed lunch of tomatoes, cheese and bread on the boat. By mid-afternoon the day-trippers were pouring in, but by then we were already on our way back.

Chania itself is best in the evenings. We walked the old town most nights, stopping for dakos and raki, then ice cream by the harbour. The resort is a short bus or taxi ride from the centre, which we liked — it keeps the nights calm and the days easy. June is the right month: warm enough for the sea, not yet blistering, and the crowds are manageable.